South of Trier, in a city called Konz, the Saar tributary intersects the Mosel river.    If you follow its winding path approximately 15km south, you’ll find Saarburg. 

Saarburg is pure wine country.  It sits in Mosel-Saar, which is one of Germany’s 13 major wine-producing regions, known for growing Riesling grapes on steep hills overlooking the picturesque river below.

I didn’t go to Saarburg for the wine—not specifically, anyway.  I was interested in Saarburg for its beauty.  It’s been called the Venice of Germany, so there’s that.  Its location on the Saar river also makes it a good bicycle touring destination.  And so my original plan was to take the train from Landstuhl to Saarlouis, and then follow the Saar 50km north into Saarburg.  The trip would take about 4 or 5 hours including a breakfast stop.

I’d been checking the weather all week.  Cold and wet Saturday afternoon – but no precipitation Saturday morning.  It seemed like a reasonable window if I left early enough.  I packed the waterproof Ortleb panniers on Friday night with 2 sets of clothes, the camera, an IPad, tools, spare inner-tubes, and a military poncho just in case.

On Saturday morning my window slammed shut.  The forecast now called for steady rain all morning.  Getting caught in a shower was one thing, but riding through persistent rain is miserable.  So I decided to do the trip in ZE JAGMOBILE instead.

Was ist das, you say?

Good question. I’m glad you asked because ZE JAGMOBILE deserves an introduction.   

ZE JAGMOBILE is a sort of hand-me-down from the last few guys who had my job.  It is a rusting 1993 Volkswagen Golf, with four doors, an automatic transmission, an inline 4-cylinder engine, a broken glovebox, a broken sunroof, and a lock that literally falls out of the passenger door handle if you try to use it.  But it’s German, so there’s that. 

Yes, ZE JAGMOBILE has every undesirable automobile feature one could hope for—and I love the thing.  It is perfect for cruising around the European countryside and filtering through narrow city streets.  It drives like a go-kart and is otherwise mechanically perfect.  It took me to Saarburg today without the slightest complaint. 

So back to Saarburg.  I made it there in about an hour and a half, accounting for a quick stop in the forest to explore this thing.

I checked into my room at 1130 and promptly set about walking a mile to the remains of a French military barracks, called Französische Kaserne. 

Walking to the Kaserne took me through a rougher part of Saarburg.  By rough I don’t mean to suggest it was unsafe or anything like that, but it was not as obediently manicured as your typical German suburb.  I also found it odd that the train station had its main building shuttered despite it being an active stop.   The tunnel that crossed under the tracks was covered in graffiti and there were some old dudes on the steps drinking Pils.  They didn't look apt for traveling but took no notice of me.

On the West side of the Saar is a different picture—one of magnificent age and beauty.  From atop the bridge I admired a cathedral wreathed in pastel houses.  I descended stone steps and ambled through cobblestone corridors, noticing only the occasional tourist.   I imagined that I was tracing the route of an ancient procession of the knights, nobles, and clergy who once lived in the nearby castle. 

Processing is terrible work and quickly I became want for drink.   I noticed two sophisticated French women enter and then quickly depart a Gasthaus.  I followed suit, wanting to discover what drove them away, only to find that behind the shanty façade was a romantic biergarten overlooking the Saar.  

The clouds never cleared but nor did things get very wet.  At least the forecast kept the tourists at bay and allowed me to fully appreciate the Germany’s little Venice as if I’d booked the entire town to myself.  I’m looking forward to coming back when it feels a little more like summer!  (view full gallery here)